Feeling dumb, yes... but mostly good!

Funny story for the day: Soo… I tend to get motion sickness. Since I’ve been here, it seems I’m pretty much always a little queasy, whether I be traveling by subway, bus, or taxi (mostly because traffic laws don’t seem to exist in this city). On my way home today, I was in an aisle seat on the bus. I was of course feeling a bit ill and, as the bus driver oh so carefully took a curve at a million miles an hour, I found myself FLUNG onto the ground and then slid (gracefully) across the bus on my bum. I’m cracking up right now as I think about it… Everyone on the bus laughed at me… I mean everyone. My friends were crying, they were laughing so hard. They’re just lucky that I didn’t throw up as I flew across the aisle.

Still, embarrassing bus incidents aside, I’m really enjoying this process of exploration. I’m loving wandering through the different barrios, finding new restaurants and bars, trying new food, meeting and chatting with locals… It's such a beautiful city with SO much to see! I just wish our stay could be a little bit longer so I could knock everything off of my to-do list.

I think I’m really starting to get a feel for this city and the people. Because my host abuela and sister are from Peru and have traveled a lot around Latin America too, I’m able to make a lot of observations about Latin America as a whole and about the differences between Argentina and the rest of the continent. For example, I’m finding that I’m often comparing the people of Buenos Aires with New Yorkers. For example, they tend to be very image conscious, dressing in the latest fashion and watching their weight. They also are not quite as friendly and open as I would have expected. In fact, we are told to avoid looking any guy on the street in the eyes because they might “get ideas.” I find this difficult because: a) the guys here are, on average, 40 percent more attractive than US guys, b) I’m used to saying hi to everyone I pass by, and c) a fair amount of the time, the guys are whistling at me.

This standoffish perception is only valid on the surface, however. Argentines might not say hello to strangers in the streets but I have yet to talk to a Porteño that hasn’t been friendly, eager to share their city, or patient with my Spanish. Friday night I went with my abuelos to their friends’ apartment for dinner. The couple we were visiting were great. The wife is from Peru, the husband Buenos Aires, and their daughter now lives in San Fransisco. SO, they spend four months of the year in Buenos Aires, four in Lima and four in California. Crazy life… but they were SO nice. I told them how much I loved Mexican food and so they immediately gave me a beautiful Mexican cook book that they had on their coffee table.

For dinner we had straight up Argentine food: empanadas (a staple), this delicious traditional stew from the Sierra, and a desert of white cheese with some sort of sweet potato candy jell stuff (SO GOOD). But the best part was after dinner when my abuelo and his friend pulled out their guitars and sang beautiful old Spanish songs and tangos for hours. I didn’t know any of the songs and couldn’t understand most of the words but I was completely enthralled. I wish we passed time like that in the States more often. They asked me to sing a song and the only one that my abuela could come up with, besides Elvis’ version of “My Way,” was The Yellow Rose of Texas. So that’s what I sang… so classic.

So far, I have felt incredibly welcome in my new house and in this country in general. Friday night, I felt comfortable and at home with people I had just met and others that I had only known for a week and a half. When I fell in the bus, a stranger helped me up. Anyone will give me directions, despite my broken spanish. Though sometimes walking down the street can seem cold and impersonal, I have to say that the people here are the most warm and generous I have ever met.

There's No Way 6 Weeks is Long Enough!

So, I thought I never wanted to leave San Telmo, the barrio I live in. BUT in the last couple days, I’ve expanded my experiences a bit and realized that this city has absolutely everything to offer everyone. I mean, I suppose it makes sense as it is a HUGE city of millions. But I’ve been amazed at the variety of stores, bars, restaurants, parks, museums…

We went on a bit of a tour a few days ago and that was a great opportunity to preview the city and decide where I really want to go back and explore.

Some sweet graffitti - it's all over the place.

I'll try to collect enough for an entire blog post.



La flor de metal - a beautiful flower
sculpture... it turns around during
the day to follow the sun!

La Boca, one of the most iconic barrios.
This is the neighborhood we can thank for tango!



La boca is really historical and interesting but really poor as well. This
mural is an homage to the fútbol team, Boca.

BUT, I still freaking love San Telmo! We explored the weekly festival/market today. So many things I want to buy... but I controled myself. This week...

I had to try really hard not to buy this. "Spaniards v
Incas" - funniest chess set ever! They also had a couple different
Jesuits v Indians. I might have to go back.

Heart melting old men singing tango songs... Ayyy!

Here's the view from the balcony off my bedroom...

una vista muy linda... So cool!

Tonight? The big 200 year independence celebration!! There’s a giant free concert in the middle of the city. Then tomorrow… recovery and homework. Ick.

¡Bienvenido a Argentina!

I’ve only been here two days and I’m already in love.

With the city, I mean. (Don’t have a heart attack mom and dad.) After the forever long plane ride, one of the Argentine program directors picked us up and immediately took us to our family. Wow, I was about as nervous as is possible. But I shouldn’t have been because my host abuela y abuelo, Teresa and Raul, are probably the nicest people on the planet. AND their granddaughter that lives with them, Alesandra, studied in Chicago when she was younger so now she speaks fluent english (I still can’t believe how lucky I am).

We live in San Telmo, the oldest neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It’s apparently a bit touristy but I couldn’t tell too much. It’s pretty bohemian and artsy with lots of bars (which are more like restaurants here) and neat shops and a market with antique stores and fruit stands and even a booth that sells old vinyls. Our apartment building is over 100 years old with one of those cool old timey elevators that has an accordion door that you have to pull shut. SOO cool. I have a balcony attached to my room that looks out on a cobblestone street. I can’t even believe this is real… haha.

Living with my family is absolutely great but very strange at the same time. I spent all day yesterday with them only, completely removed from anything I knew before. The people, the scenery, the food, the language of course - everything was so different. The normal Paige was completely isolated from her normal context. I realized I could totally reinvent myself to my host family, make up all sorts of stories about myself, be someone completely different than I was at home… and they would never know. In the end, I decided to stay the same old Paige, though. It’s hard enough communicating in Spanish, I don’t need to keep a new life straight at the same time.

Today we had orientation for our classes at Universidad Catolica de Argentina. I felt like I was in kindergarden again as Teresa and Alesandra walked me to school and kissed me goodbye. I’m super lucky because I only have to walk about six blocks to get to my classes. Some other students have to take a subway, bus, or taxi and travel for half an hour or more.

The university is very new and beautiful and is right on the Rio de la Plata. Alessandra was telling me that all the state universities in Argentina are very good and that they’re free for citizens of MercaSur but that since UCA is private, you have to pay for it. This was evident in the fashion of the students we saw at the university. I felt so un-hip next to everyone’s beautiful clothes… obvious result? I’m itching to go shopping!

We start classes tomorrow and then it’s the weekend! It’s Argentina’s 200th anniversary on Monday- Teresa gave me a history lesson earlier about Simón Bolivar and South American independence. I’ve seen so many commercials for all the celebrations in Buenos Aires and I’m hoping we’ll go to some of them. I have a feeling they’ll be hard to avoid.

For now, though, I’ve got to finish my reading for tomorrow and unpack my clothes in my beautiful new closet. More to come (and hopefully some pictures too)!